I was right there at the crossroads and very lost indeed. Etta, my old time classmate and travelling companion had gone looking for people - someone who might just figure out what we needed. Between us, the two female travellers Etta was the brave one armed with sufficient information from guide books, mastered some Italian words and possessed a lot of academic insight into the history and culture of Sicily. As for me, I just tagged along benefiting from her stewardship and adventurous spirit. Naturally, I was the one to stay behind and stand guard over our bags while she seek assistance.
I was stuck with four of them - two bigger bags hugged my legs, a backpack on top on them and another slung across my shoulder. As afternoon siesta went into session, I watched vehicles and human traffic sped by and quickly disappeared. Doors of surrounding shops and offices banged shut. I was desolate and anxiety began mounting up. The whole town seemed to have fallen asleep and the atmosphere was bizarre.
Just as I was getting real uneasy, an old car trotted down the road. The front seat passenger was certainly familiar, Etta waved. The car stopped and I was invited in. Two young Sicilian ladies were our saviours for the day. They spoke solely Italian or perhaps a Sicilian dialect (we wouldn’t know the difference). Their kind heartedness and Etta’s perseverance ultimately cut through all communication barriers - they deposited us right at the doorstep of a travel agency.
We came to know (later) that this place was Campobello di Mazara and we had overshot our intended bus station at Castelvetrano. There really wasn’t ‘a station’. We should have gotten down at a particular ‘stop’ but missed. Siesta seemed to last forever, Etta managed to book a taxi at the travel agency and we waited. Finally, a nice looking white taxi arrived and for the very first time in this remote part of the world, someone understood a little English. What a relief .
But, we soon found ourselves winding on a narrow road through lush olive groves where no other vehicles were in sight. The taxi driver just drove on and on, through acres and hectares of fabulous green trees - very beautiful landscape indeed but it was certainly not the time for leisure sightseeing. I was beginning to think of possible escape plans, just in case …...
Then all too sudden, it was over. We bumped onto a main road. It was wonderful to see buildings, vehicles and people ! A few more turns and we reached the most charming town of Marinella. Merely a short street of shops, small number of interesting residential houses, motels and stalls by the beach, this small fishing town was set by the gorgeous Mediterranean sea. It grew from a fishing village of ancient times to a tourist destination of current period due to the archaeological wonders of Selinunte nearby.
We checked into a small family run cosy, bed and breakfast motel with a little sea view. People were very casual and friendly everywhere we went. The bus station master spoke no English but knew exactly what we needed - the time table. The bus driver who spends time waiting in his bus under the shade of a tree (the ‘bus station’) recognized us by the time we left the following day. In this small place, you can practically see anyone ‘roaming around town’. We were such an ‘outstanding pair’ - strikingly unfamiliar Asian looks - an Indian and Chinese, and females.
We strolled along stretches of beach with fine golden sand, marvelled at the clear blue waters and browsed through souvenir shops. My favourite was a ceramic
shop with a quaint little car parked in front, brightly painted in multiple patterns carrying the name of the shop on its roof. Sicily is well known for its beautiful ceramics. They come in interesting shapes and brightly decorated with Greek gods and other mythical characters and local Mediterranean produce like citruses.
Selinunte lived up to its reputation, rated as the best virgin archaeological site in the world. Its name probably came from the wild parsley (selinon in Greek) growing in the area. The ancient acropolis is located on a hill overlooking the sapphire blue Mediterranean sea and the whole area within the original city boundary remained unadulterated by modern buildings and commercial activities. An additional buffer zone was also demarcated against tourist facilities and future development. Excavated ruins of buildings were being reconstructed while more are uncovered.
The views in and around the site were awesome. Despite the intense autumn sunshine, the heat was bearable. Cool breezes from the sea made exploration very pleasant and pleasurable. In spring, the whole place would have been covered with wild flowers but in dry autumn, beautiful huge succulents like cactuses decorated the landscape of ruins and fallen rocks.
We acquired a nice tan after hours of walking and figuring out parts of the acropolis and temples which once stood majestically in their individual architectural styles. They were dedicated to particular gods and located on peaks of hillocks. The city was destroyed by many wars, the last major one being in 250 BC and it never recovered since. Subsequent earthquakes brought most of the buildings to the ground and over millenniums, they were forgotten until their revival by archaeologists and the Sicilian Government.
Sometimes fate has its way of making life more enlightening or disappointing. It depends on your frame of mind at that point in time. Our chance sojourn at Campobello di Mazara connected us to the story of great temple building in Selinunte. A gigantic marble drum still lie near its quarries today, faithfully waiting to be transported to the construction site for more than 2,400 years. The
wars ended but the fate of the Greek inhabitants who were colonial masters of the day were sealed - they never got to finish their grand temples.
The intended highlight of my trip to Sicily was the island of Stromboli where I could watch volcanic eruptions every 15 minutes while Etta is a great fan of Greek mythology and temples. So we decided to combine both agendas to make it one great exciting trip.
From Selinunte we went on to visit Agrigento and Siracuse. However, fate would also have it that we cut short our trip to attend to unfortunate events at home but the promise to return was determined. I did not get to see the volcanoes but there were no regrets. In those short 5 days, our adventures have carved deep impressions and imprinted memories that are hard to erase. We still laugh at our exasperations at Campobello di Mazara, our meddling with the Italian language that led us to consume some weird food combination in Agrigento and the encounter with a cheeky entrance ticket seller at Selinuente who wanted to see ‘our rings’ !! |