I struggled hard for oxygen. I was nearing the ‘head of the dragon’ at 4,000 m above sea level. Awesome, splendid, wonderful ….. that’s how one would describe the surrounding scenery on the way up this slopping valley. We hiked up against the water flow in the gully at the foot of the sacred, permanently snow capped Xuebaoding or 'Snow Mountain Peak’ in the Minshan Range.
Surrounded by lush alpine forests, the pristine environment is enlightened by the sound of water streaming down terraces. In snowy autumn weather, a wonderful sense of mystique filled the air. The beautiful ancient temples nearby accompanied with tales of gods and emperors, hermits living in nearby caves and healing waters were all too fascinating. As gentle snow flakes fell, my eyes followed the direction of gully or ‘Yellow Dragon’ wind its way through the forests down the valley. It is most revered by the small number of Tibetan folks who lived here since ancient times. Huanglong means ‘Yellow Dragon’.
According to legend, the Golden Dragon of East Sea helped Emperor Dayu of ancient times prevent flood disasters by redirecting the course of waterways. Today, the image of this dragon is believed to take the form of a gully - Huanglonggou, a geological wonder resembling that of the mythical Chinese dragon. Faithful Tibetans endure long and arduous journeys to pay homage to this site annually.
The gully flows an estimated length of 3.6 km and extends a width of 30-170 m. Crystal-clear waters stream down the slope in an extensive network of cascading pools in shades of blue, green and yellow alongside sparkling shoals running on pale yellow surface. The pools and earth surface are naturally sculptured in bracket-like shapes that looked like scales of the dragon. In reality, these amazing features are the combined effects of unique karst landforms and travertine depositions on a very large scale.
Huanglong is in Songpan County, Sichuan Province and is relatively more remote and at a higher altitude than Juizhaigou, the ‘fairyland’ also in the Minshan range. It is protected by the government and UNESCO because of its extraordinary geological formations and highly diverse forest ecosystems which are habitats to rare and threatened species of plants and animals endemic to the area.
For centuries, the Tibetan folks who had lived in Huanglong have been isolated from the rest of the world due to difficult accessibility and their reclusive lifestyle devoted to their gods and religious practices. I felt extremely grateful for the opportunity to ‘intrude’ into their wonderland believed to belong to the celestial - the golden dragon which had achieved 'buddhahood’. |