Memories of the bomb attacks in Kuta and Sept. 11th incident in America remained vivid. Though a little unease crept in my mind, I was determined not to be bothered by it. I was there to see this reputed tropical island described by many people as ‘magical’.
Bali lived by its many fairytales and legends. Accordingly, one that registered in my mind was told as follows ;
‘In the beginning there was the creation of the universe and a grand event took place through the purity of meditation. The magical island of Bali was born - resting on an immense turtle between the base of the cosmos below and the perfumed heavens above.’
The people of Bali believed that the Gods created Bali for them and provided them with life. Rice, the gift from the Gods is the staple food that sustains life. The land is now rich with padi (rice) fields of lush green which turn to splendid gold at harvest time. They thrive in the fertile volcanic soil of manicured mountain slopes to neat rectangles in the plains.
While travelling from the airport to our hotel in Nusa Dua, I witnessed the change of landscape from moderate city commercial buildings to poor countryside dwellings and then to a distinctively different environment. The Nusa Dua precinct where many of the international hotels were located was like a different world - good infrastructure, clean and beautifully landscaped. Traditional sculptures, soothing fountains, lush greeneries and colourful flowers especially frangipanis transformed the whole district into a visually pleasant park.
The majority of Balinese people are of Hindu faith. Against the backdrop of a dramatic tall majestic mountains and volcanoes, spectacular waves and stunning cliffs to contrasting gentle waves and smooth sandy beaches - life centres around many colourful ceremonies and rituals. Specially handcrafted gifts, music and dance performances are presented to the Gods in return for their blessings everyday. They also make peace with mischievous demons and worship their ancestors with due reverence. Gods, demons and ancestors are all unseen inhabitants among earthly beings.
Bali is also known as the ‘Island of the Gods, Temples and Dances’ and ‘The land of many Temples’ due to its numerous temples and consecrated places packed on the small island. Traditional music and dances are themed around tales of Gods and demons. I visited the most beautiful, important and historically significant of these temples. The temples of Tanah Lot seated on a naturally carved promontory and Luhur perched at the edge of a high cliff jutting into the sea at Uluwatu were awesome at sunset. In the gradually changing shades of gold and purple, the silhouette of these sacred and unique ancient buildings were shrouded in an air of mystique.
Situated east of Java, Bali is one of the Lesser Sunda Islands surrounded by coral reefs in the Indian Ocean. Balinese are descendents of a prehistoric race who migrated through mainland Asia to settle in Bali around 2,500 BC. In ancient times, various parts of the island were ruled by sovereigns and they became part of the Indonesia Republic in 1948. Despite being colonized by the Dutch and briefly by Japanese, the people remained resilient to political and social pressures and held steadfast to their culture and religion.
Visiting Bali was a great cultural experience while establishing an intimacy with nature. With friends, we hired a driver to take us through narrow country roads crossing padi fields and climbing winding hill slopes to Ubud, the centre for fine arts, handicrafts and paintings. We stopped at a traditional thatched roof restaurant standing on stilts anchored onto steep slopes among padi fields and coconut palms. The ambience was great, natural cool breezes ventilated the open dining hall. The food was good - spicy but not very hot.
We could have shopped till we dropped at Ubud but Kuta was waiting for us. The town centre was where all the fun and confusion lies - chaotic traffic, countless restaurants, bars, lots of small stalls and a few bigger sized departmental stores. There was more shopping and eating. Kuta lies by the sea and the beaches were the places to watch all the motion (if you are not in it) - surfing and other water sports or traditional massaging in public space.
Bali is unique in many ways. The language and social identity of the people linked to their communal activities and location influenced a little by the ancient Hindu caste system cannot be found anywhere else in the world. ‘Balinese Hinduism’ is an integration of Hindu spiritualism and local animistic beliefs prevalent prior to the advent of Hinduism from Java (originally from India) in the 11th century. They believed strongly that peace and harmony on earth can only be achieved if proper cosmic balance between the divine, human and spiritual realms are established. This concept is seen to rule every aspect of their life.
My fascination with the arts, culture and striking physical beauty of Bali leads me to concur with its many superlative descriptions. It feels good to delve on the notion that ‘Gods live among humans and created a wonderful island for the people of Bali’ - this has to be ‘heaven on earth’. |