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Well, it was worth it, both the effort and the extra cost, for Abu Simbel comes
very very close to Karnak among the dramatic and marvellous sights which I beheld
in Ancient Egypt. In total darkness we were driven to the airport in Aswan (which,
as afore-mentioned, is far superior to the dump at Luxor) and loaded into a nice
little aircraft (two seats each side of the aisle) belonging to a firm called Scorpio
Aviation. Its emblem of a scorpion decorated the tail of the plane. As we were all
rather bleary-eyed and there was nothing to see anyway, we either dozed or else
consumed some of the packed breakfast provided by the Commodore. During the trip
I joined up with three ladies from Gloucester, whom I had got to know on the crossing
to Philae. I was sitting on the plane next to Betty, who is only 79 and is obviously
game to go anywhere. She told me that her two daughters Lexie and Trish (who were
in the seats behind us) arrange the holidays, then tell her where they are all going.
Betty just pays up and goes along. May she long continue to do so!
The reason for our travelling at such a hideous hour became apparent once we were
at our destination. Abu Simbel lies about 150 miles south of Aswan, on the western
side of Lake Nasser. It is only about forty miles from the Sudanese border, which
gave me a creepy feeling when I learned it, for famine and warfare are loose in
that land. The site of these monuments put up at the command of the Pharaoh Rameses
II (owner of one of the most monstrous egos in history) was also in danger of being
engulfed by the rising waters of Lake Nasser but like Philae it was saved, being
moved to higher ground in an amazing operation. One must hand it to the engineers
of our own times - even Rameses would have been impressed.
The bus from the airport approached Abu Simbel from the rear of the two artificial
hills which have been built to contain its temples. Their outlines were discernible
by the late light of the moon and the early light of the day. Once off the bus,
down a path and round a corner to the left we veered - and at that moment the first
rays of the sun peeped above the eastern rim of Lake Nasser. Swing further to the
left immediately, turn your back on the rising sun - and you see before you the
four colossal statues of Rameses which guard the entry to the temple dedicated to
Amen-Ra and other gods, the grey - white sand tinged pink by the Sun God himself.
While his beams colour the incredible facade, the moon still shines, hanging above
the temple mounds.
There are two temples, one in each mound. The second and slightly smaller one (to
the right of the first as you face them) is consecrated to the goddess Hathor and
honours Queen Nefertari, favourite wife of Pharaoh Rameses II. Her coronation is
depicted within. The guardian statues at the entrances are just the beginning, for
both temples have even more to offer inside than out. They are excavated far into
the mounds and as usual with Egyptian temples (we were now learning to expect it),
the halls, corridors, pillars and chambers, all of spacious dimensions, were covered
everywhere with wonderful works of art which have endured for 3000 years or more.
I went into the temples, took a look at the wide expanse of Lake Nasser, then let
it all sink in while I treated myself to a brief rest on a bench near some thorny
trees among the branches of which a number of little birds (possibly sparrows) were
bouncing and twittering. I feel sad that in England there are now fewer little birds
than there used to be, so it was a pleasure to listen to these. Indeed, it is a
joy to report that the land of Egypt, which is athwart some of the migration routes,
can still boasts thriving population of all sorts of birds. A booklet on the Common
Birds of Egypt was for sale in the Commodore gift shop, and I bought one before
the cruise ended.
Our stay was then over, so it was back to Aswan by bus, plane and bus. We had had
an unforgettable day, or so it felt, yet when we arrived back at the Nile Commodore,
it was only 9.30 a.m.! There was a great deal more of the day to come, most of it
spent in repose on the sundeck, but not all of it. We had two more temples to inspect
before our voyage was over.
After everyone (including shift No. 2 from Abu Simbel) had made their way back to
our floating home, the Commodo reset sail. We were moving downstream now, away from
inner Africa and the change of direction felt not only confusing but somewhat anti-climactic,
as the second part of a holiday often does.
Nevertheless the lazy post-lunch hours aboard our vessel passed pleasantly enough
and in the later afternoon we arrived back at the temple of Kom Ombo and moored
at the foot of the height on which it stands, along with a couple of other cruise-boats
which had arrived there ahead of us. As we walked up the slope past a variety of
souvenir stalls, the temple was lit up and turned red by the declining sun, but
by the time our fairly short tour of it was over, night had fallen and it was electric
lights which were illuminating the buildings.
Despite a few remaining vestiges of the 18th dynasty, most of Kom Ombo dates from
the Ptolemaic period. It is an unusual temple in that it is allotted to two gods
(one represented by the crocodile, the other by the falcon), so everything there
is in twos and equal in dimensions, one half of the precinct being a mirror image
of the other. It wouldn't do to have an outbreak of divine jealousies, would it?
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