Picture Stories - Historical Places - Visit Borobudur Temple

Situated in the legendary Kedu plains once called the ‘garden of central Java’, the majestic shrine cum temple of Chandi Borobudur (‘chandi’ means temple) beams from the summit of a hill. In the peripheral distance, mighty volcanoes including the much revered Gunung Merapi overlook these plains. The fertile volcanic soils supported padi crops in abundance thus earning the ancient name for Java – Java Dwipa or ‘the rice island’. It attracted traders and other visitors. South-eastern Indian traders, particularly from Gujarat arrived as early as the 1^st century AD bringing their skills, cultures and religions. The first were Hinduism and Buddhism and later Islam.

Indian Buddhist settlers spread both Hinayana and Mahayana Buddhism, the later became more advanced in the 8th century. Kingdoms emerged - at the height of its prosperity and power, the Sailendra Dynasty dominated the Kedu plains. They built the most splendid of all temples somewhere between the years 778 and 825. The biggest stupa, with an aerial perspective of giant tantric mandala, in the world - then and now was erected. It was also the first great Buddhist monument in South-east Asia which is said to have inspired such other iconic temples as the Angkor Wat in ancient Angkor city in Cambodia.

King Samaratunga, revered as the ‘Boddhisatva king’ by his subjects, is credited with the completion of the temple. The Indians brought along their concept of ‘dewa-raja’ or the god-king. In Mahayana Buddhism, a Boddhisatva is one who has achieved enough merits to ‘buddhahood’ but chose to remain on earth to help humans. The Sailendras were known to be able to mobilize labour effectively and efficiently by the use of rituals associated with symbolic divine powers thus expanding good-yielding crops of padi.

Borobudur temple together with 2 smaller associated temples in Mendut and Pawon nearby is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It has great religious significance to Buddhists. Pilgrims from all over Indonesia and around the world make annual pilgrimages here in current day Yogyakarta Province especially on Waisak (or Wesak) Day. According to Buddhist symbolism, the shrine rises in ascending levels of holiness representing the transcending human state of mind towards purity and enlightenment or nirvana.

Steps leading up to the eastern gateway. The mammoth temple was built on a bedrock hill – 265m above sea level and 15m above the floor of a dried-out paleo lake. It was thought to have been built on the lake shore or even ‘floated’ on a lake like a lotus flower – a symbol of purity or enlightenment in Buddhism. The existence of a lake has been contested but recent geological studies does show evidence supporting this notion.

The monumental temple rises in tiers of volcanic stone blocks - more than 2 million of them. There are a total of 9 platforms: lower 6 squares including the base and 3 upper circles. The entire structure takes the general shape of a stupa and is in-turn crowned in the middle by a gigantic bell-shaped stupa.

The ascending levels each represent a stage of progress towards enlightenment. In Buddhist cosmology, there are 3 mental states of preparation towards ultimate enlightenment. These are symbolized in the temple by the base – Kamadhatu (‘the world of desires’), next 5 square platforms - Rupadhatu (‘the world of forms’) and the 3 round platforms – Arupadhatu (‘the world of formlessness’).

“Men gossiping’ at the ‘hidden foot’!” In the ‘world of desires’, humans are predominated by animal instincts and basic desires. A total of 160 narrative panels illustrating the ‘law of karma’ – ‘cause and effect’ were accidentally discovered in 1885. An additional encasement base had concealed them, the reason for this is still a mystery. Today, a few panels are left exposed (not covered back) for viewing purpose.

The balustrades and walls of the 5 square platforms representing the ‘world of forms’ are covered with 2,510 panels of narrative and decorative bas reliefs. They have been carved in-situ after the building was completed. Originally, there are also a total of 432 Buddha statues in niches, unfortunately many are now damaged or missing.

A unique makara (gargoyles). There was a good drainage system to handle high storm waters. Old scriptures noted that Gunadharma was the architect but little was known about him. However, building details in abeyance with both sciences and Buddhist cosmology and symbolism certainly reflected his ingenuity.

The Buddha’s life in bas reliefs - an episode of his lifetime as a horse. The narratives in the platforms representing the ‘world of forms’ illustrate previous lives and biography of Buddha Sakyamuni and other deities. Each relief panel has a moral story to tell and be emulated. In this state, the human mind starts to conquer basic desires and noble tendencies emerge.

Reliefs on walls and balustrades are to be read in the direction followed by pilgrims during the ritual of circumambulation. A system of staircases and corridors guides the ascent to the top platform, each level reached represents progress towards purity and wisdom. On Waisak Day the congregation is led by chanting monks.

The transitional corridor towards ‘formlessness’ - there are little decorative details on the last (6th) level signifying that one has almost shed all of his burden of desires.

In the backdrop looms Menoreh Ridge, volcanoes are also nearby. Borobudur was mysteriously abandoned for nearly 1,000 years until its ‘rediscovery’ under piles of volcanic ashes and jungle by Stamford Raffles in 1814. One suggested reason for desertion was that local inhabitants relocated eastwards as a result of massive eruptions at Mount Merapi in 1006. The temple re-established its religious significance after completion of restoration works undertaken jointly by UNESCO and Indonesian government in 1973.

Reaching enlightenment or nirvana. A total of 72 perforated stupas line the circumference of the 3 plain circular platforms which signify the spiritual realm completely void of lust, desire and form. Inside each of these stupas standing on lotus bases there is a Buddha statue in sitting position (cross-legged in a lotus formation).

Peaked by a gigantic primary or main stupa in the centre, the original total height of the temple measured 42m but lightning strikes have brought it down to 35m. In this main stupa, there is an empty room which is now sealed. It was said that a magnificent golden statue of Buddha once occupied the space. But it was misappropriated and the perpetrator ordered a replica made. The statue turned out to be less than perfect and was dubbed the ‘Unfinished Buddha’. It is now in a museum.